Back to that Urinal sweater: Owens went off on a tangent, as hes portrayed the act of relieving himself on photos and sculptures of himself, in photos and exhibitions, as a metaphor for creative expression that is expelled, rejected and internalized. 2023 Cond Nast. He designed one iconic collection after another while at the helm of Balenciaga in the aughts and teens and then had such an acrimonious breakup he landed in court. Most of the press that Im in, I will go out and buy the magazines, so I really treasure print and I think other people also do because when we put it out at the gallery, we had so many people come in specially to get the zine. LONDON, United Kingdom Rick Owens called his new menswear collection Phlegethon, after the river of fire that ran through the underworld in Greek mythology. The vision for PAUSE was to create a platform which effortlessly expresses male fashion. Tyrone Dylan Susman opened this Rick Owens show in a one-legged, one-shouldered jumpsuit modeled after . Anok Yai in a Prada coat from the mens spring 2021 show. When I look at what youre doing, it takes the strong will to keep that straight path. Im really enjoying looking at the way you portray your clothes, the way they portray the bodies that you focus on, because you have a particular body its not muscle man, your bodies are very lithe and theyre all very elegant and theyre not bulky. All Rights Reserved. Tap into Getty Images' global scale, data-driven insights, and network of more than 340,000 creators to create content exclusively for your brand. Tyrone Dylan's involvement with Rick Owens flourished during the pandemic. When it comes to retail, remaking archive pieces has a proven track record. LdSS: Oh my god, stop, I have so many flaws. Once the team was back together, they worked on Owens' sombre Spring/Summer 2021 presentation, which was modelled by Tyrone Dylan Susman and shot entirely in his studio. 2023 Cond Nast. But perhaps the most interesting development in this self-referential season is the designer as her own muse. Cover of the Tyrone by Rick for Ludovic souvenir zine. Theres a prudishness. Sign up for WWD news straight to your inbox every day. Season after season, a head harbinger materialises in the shape of Tyrone Susman, an 8-foot muse and messiah.The model takes on a biblical spectrum on the catwalk, as if birthed from some kind of celestial rock - albeit with a glossy pout and . In a time when most fashion houses went online, Owens launched an in-person fashion show on a small Italian island, where his usual team of 120 was . Rick Owens: I found out about you through Tyrone. Some labels are trying to do it sustainably, by using old fabric (like Ronald van der Kemp and Chanel) or by making nothing except a video (Dries Van Noten). Next Post Ludovic de Saint Sernin: For me, growing up and looking at fashion, you were one of the stars. It felt good to go back to it. For just over three years, De Saint Sernin has been captivating the fashion industry, as well as his own devoted following, with his sensual designs which embody a new, elegant and elevated take on homoeroticism. LdSS: I wake up with cereal, I dont have milk with it, just cereal, its a dry breakfast and I have apple juice. Though maybe even that is an antiquated idea. Yeah i was incredibly skinny at one point and still had 13% body fat. We didnt finish your day, what do you have for dinner? I looked somewhere that has been calling out to me for a long time, somewhere I hadnt taken the time to go back to. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. Thats what I consider my biggest flaw. Yours is way sexier, which is funny at my age, all of a sudden Im interested in that. After coming together for a creative project, the two designers come together for a revealing conversation. Right afterward, I Zoomed with Owens in his apartment on the Lido in Venice, where hes spending the summer possibly feeling guilty that he enjoys the sunlit solitude as much as he does. Credits for this picture: Rick Owens (Designer), Tyrone Dylan Susman (Fashion Editor/Stylist), Duffy (Hair Stylist), Daniel Sallstrom (Makeup Artist), Angus Munro (Casting Director) Fashion designer Rick OWENS & Tyrone SUSMAN @ Paris Fashion Week 2 march 2020 show Giambattista Valli AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow. Rick Owenss mesh tank finale of spring 2011. When Tyrone Dylan Susman was an eight-year-old living in Melbourne, he declared he would work in fashion. Owens invented a new adjective for the look glamasleazy adding the additional descriptor of languorous. Yet there was the usual rigor to his tailoring, more voluptuous than ever, and the finesse of luxurious, yet meaty fabrics, from cotton and silk duchesse to a canvas wool woven on century-old shuttle looms. There is an unspoken rule about attending a wedding which is to not dress in a manner that attracts attention. Fuck commercial, just do what delights you. It was a nice experience. The gesture, of holding an evening coat closed, is also one she makes herself at almost every public appearance, from her blink-and-youd-miss-it bows to her annual but oft un-photographed appearances at the Met gala. For instance, those huge-shouldered jackets from autumn were shown here with the sleeves ripped out. I have that in the mornings and for lunch I have a big thing of chicken with pasta or pure and then for dinner I have a big thing of chicken and pasta and pure too. Both obviously opting for head-to-toe looks from the designers French label, Rick appears in a black roll neck, trousers, collared pea coat and his instantly recognisable platform boots while Tyrone dons black jeans, a white tee, a cropped shoulder pad jacket and similarly elevated footwear. View Slideshow. Miuccia Prada takes at bow at the Miu Miu resort 2020 show in Paris. This was not in honor of Victoria Beckham, who was (along with David) a surprise addition to the congregation. Video: Do These Outrageous Celebrity Fashion Looks Hold Up? Create an account to follow your favorite communities and start taking part in conversations. In this picture: May Hong. Ad Choices. We started to build this relationship where I see him as a big brother, someone who has built such a strong community, pre-Instagram. New Lord of the Rings Movies Set at Warner Bros. Mark Wahlberg's $55 Million Mansion Sold to Buyer of Heather Dubrow's Newport Chateau. I am grateful for the little break that I could reflect on that and have that in mind for the next one. RO: As a kid, I had the two teeth that stuck out. Rick Owens. Then we sent it to the printers, after Tyrone approved it, of course. Youre invited to the party, bring something. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Capture of Miles Greenbergs performance, with the artist wearing sparkling lace-up Ludovic de Saint Sernin briefs. When I opened it for the first time, I just loved that it was matte and that you didnt see clearly the details. NYFW Fall 2023 Street Style Hair Trends: Unexpected Updos, The 20 Best Slouchy Bags That Exude Laid-BackStyle, NYFW Street Style Recap: The Fashion Crowd GoesGreen, Noah Cyrus Confidently Freed the Nipple in a Showstopping Mesh Look for Milan Fashion Week, Evanna Lynch Addresses J.K. Rowling Trans Controversy, Says the Author Advocates for Most Vulnerable Members of Society. In Los Angeles, The Elder Statesman did the same, showcasing a patchwork of knitters, marketers, and salespeople smiling and lounging in cashmere knitwear. The very first look she ever showed for fall 1987 was a model in a satin opera coat, clutched at the chest. There have been times in the past where I started feeling responsible for people that worked for me and thinking I have to keep the numbers up and look at what people want and it just didnt work. For almost 30 years, Owens has been at the bleeding edge of fashion, helming a . PHOTO CREDIT: @leven.outfits. It looks like what you do, it comes from someone who is very very careful and thoughtful. Im very American like that. Its not easy. What about you? "it felt modest, intimate and personal." after that show, however, it was time for owenscorp to . For almost 30 years, Owens has been at the bleeding edge of fashion, helming a brand that is as grand as it is grunge, devoured by its devoted following. And also, you know, having him open each mens show its sending a message about values; about not having things be so disposable. The clothes didnt have to show the body because it was already formed, so I didnt feel like I had to enhance it, which is the opposite of you because your clothes reveal the body in such a way that your body really has to live up to your clothes. RO: I was so curious about your path because it was so different than mine, thats why I asked so many questions because it fascinated me how you had done it in such a different way. A Burberry employee poses in the brands resort 2021 look book. Owens claimed the months of quarantine had made him conscious of how far he'd come and how grateful and appreciative he was. It's really hard to give an accurate BF% tbh. I loved that it was a hedonistic world that you were showing us, but it was paced very deliberately. Because the runway was raised around a meter or so we got an eyeful of the footwear, which included a powerful new orthopedic variation of his glamorous platform boots. Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. When Im at the factory, Ive gotten into the habit of having an apricot croissant, like a big juicy slutty apricot croissant. Thats my lunch. We get kind of intense, he said during a preview. Said the designer: Its a Victorian silhouette. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. The further along that you went, you kept this rigorous pace that was very steady and wasnt trying to throw everything into a show, it was almost minimal. DO YOU REMEMBER: For the second season running, Ludovic de Saint Sernin chose a pop-up format to reveal of his fall 2021 collection, setting up shop in Joyce Gallery until Jan. 31. Eagle-eyed watchers will have also spotted new beaded jewelry pieces and a golden pendant featuring one of his racy back views, part of an upcoming line of astrological pendants created in collaboration with goldsmith Goossens Paris. The Atticos Latest Capsule References R&B Icons Mary J. Blige,TLC. Owens talked about graphics of exposed flesh carved by his cut-out cashmere layers, and alongside those were the graphics of silhouette. RO: Its incredible. Which I think is the most moral thing anybody can do. Just like Bowie (the striped looks were trs Yamamoto also) and just like Beuys, this collection was both provocation and stimulation for the eye. Hes one of those artists who take inspiration from Instagram, a source thats been hard to legitimize because people assume there should be more intellectual references. RO: I think about my flaws a lot and I put them in my mens clothes so Ill give you a start one of my biggest flaws is impatience. Instead he wanted to imbue his collection with an elaborate modesty, partially drawn from the British queens 19th-century reign. Everything that you did felt very carefully planned. I really admire this because its easier now to create a community, with Instagram and social media, because you can connect with people all over the world. There has to be something for everyone and at the same time you cant please everyone. Now 32, his life in Paris has exceeded his wildest sartorial dreams. Designer Tyrone Dylan Susman and consultant for Rick Owens Ambie Stapleton is seen arriving to the 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards on June 3, 2019 in New York City. Ludovic: My flaw is in relation to my star sign [which is Virgo] Im a perfectionist. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. RO: That is so important, thats one thing that Ive learned, you have to only please yourself, because if you start considering other people then it distracts you and its not a good thing. But anyone can inspire a piece of art or a garment. But where Yamamotos was a vivid pattern drawn from yakuza tattoos and kimonos, Owenss was drably dun, and in the felty cashmere from which he crafted it wason purposeblankety. For more information read our Terms & Conditions. He doesn't see to have any weak areas/areas that store more fat. But those who know Mrs. P. know that this collection was really all about her. But, you know, the houses in Paris represent the best of the fashion industry and its their job to present excellenceI get it.. But then I had braces and when I was in my 30s I started working out I was an alcoholic then so I was always hungover but I was always working out. View Larger. Ive been trying to match that and keep up with him really. . The film premiered at 6pm Paris time on . Id be the Instagram version of this.. The Getty Images design is a trademark of Getty Images. Tyrone Dylan Susman wears a mesh tank as a part of Rick Owenss spring 2021 menswear collection. There were a lot of ideas I didn't want to throw away, so I re-edited them in a different, quieter way without the flamboyance of the runway show." Copies were going at a brisk pace. Both were wearing the brands Kiss Boots which feature an oversized heel and sole unit, with Rick sporting a long black coat and trousers while his fellow designer opted for high waisted-trousers and a cropped blazer. Many of the other designers mentioned here are masters of self-mythologizing, but Mrs. Prada exists on a plane where others do it for her. How exciting that would be. Hes a genetic phenom look at him. One by-product of self-isolation in our homes is that we have all been forced to take stock of our stuff: the things that clutter our bookshelves and closets, gather on table tops and coat racks, and hang out in organized messes in corners and under beds. Here it was more about laughing at mens baser urges and perhaps a sly commentary about excessive branding and pontificating. We cover street style, the latest trends, style advice and reveal the latest products available for the fashion conscious young male. It's important that u can see his abs all the way down because many people struggle to get rid of fat in the lower torso. RO: You know what? RO: No, Ive been doing this for 20 years now. Even though Im all about Instagram and digital, I am an old-fashioned gal, too. And then there is Miuccia Prada. Though one is established and the other is emerging, both Rick Owens and Ludovic de Saint Sernin are designers defined by the singularity of their visions. Once you PAUSE it is our job to bring you the very best and exclusive information about male fashion. I dont follow/understand Tyrone/Rick/Michelles love life but Ive got so many questions, I wouldn't say 6. Its fun to throw something spontaneously creative out there without any agenda. The designer has set up shop in Paris Joyce Gallery until Jan. 31, for an exhibition and pop-up store featuring pre-orders for his fall 2021 collection. PAUSE is an independent digital publication focused on young male fashion. 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I dont know what to say not to sound superficial to answer this question. I didnt realize that we shared a lot of fans, but people saw us at each others show and hanging out. I doubt he even knows. This was how I originally started out. RO: Do you wake up with a coffee or juice or water or what? All Rights Reserved. Thoughts? And a cookie. Cap'n Rick, we salute you, and eagerly await your return. Follow the link below to pick up Tyrones jacket or shop Rick Owens latest online. 1 yr. ago. Coverage. The most obvious expression of this is designers starring in look books. He also does cardio every day until he can no longer run. I want to be but I cant. Fresh off the back of a collaboration a zine titled TYRONE BY RICK FOR LUDOVIC the pair sit down with AnOther for a conversation spanning food, form and fashion, as well as their commonalities. he is also working out a lot. Collection. Mine can be shrouded because personally I wear big baggy clothes because somewhere theres the confidence that underneath the body is good so I dont even have to show it. Also out of Ricks past were layered mesh tanks and stretchy knits and swimwear whose abbreviation echoed the work of the late Californian maestro Rudi Gernreich. Youve managed to create a very unique world. PAUSE signifies the actual pause icon by pausing every fashionable moment for its audience. (Its worth noting The Elder Statesman is the only brand to publicly admit to employing a vibe consultant; maybe its an L.A. thing, but Id venture that more brands have behind-the-scenes soothsayers on their payrolls.) Boards are the best place to save images and video clips. I see it as my lifes work to balance out that energy, he mused. And there is a highly autobiographical element too. Being able to achieve this through so many years and for people to have been following you for so many years is just incredible. A lot of people like to claim that they're under 10% body fat but that's cap, especially if you aren't doing specific things to achieve that. I went back to look at it and we shot videos and stuff, so I took some stills from the videos. So thats one of the flaws that I have that I constantly try to keep in balance. Something else I have noticed sprouting among fashions most celebrated talents is a sustainability of the mind. Thats very democratic, and its important to acknowledge that its a conversation where you are as inspired by them as they are by you, said the designer. Thats all I have. To me, impatience is a big flaw because it implies fear of something. And while on an aesthetic level, these two designers may seem like poles apart, they have more in common than you might think. RO: I just have coffee. 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WWD and Women's Wear Daily are part of Penske Media Corporation. I was a lot more introspective 10 years ago. LdSS: I dont drink coffee, I dont smoke, I dont really do adult things, Im like a baby. Today, Owens went Victorian. LdSS: I dont know how to be anybody else but myself and I feel like youre the same. To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories, Rick Owens has become the Prada of Paris. And the aesthetic that you had, the homoerotic part, was different than wed seen before. And thats what Im trying to do. And he did. More interesting are the sparks of designers own obsessions and personal references to past work. Which led us back to the author of it all. Also graphic, and way less elevated (in fact exactly halfway down) was the bushy tuft of human male yarn unseen on an Owens runway since fall 2015 that curled southwards from one blue cashmere jumpsuit. I did look back and use my own archives. Get all the top news stories and alerts straight to your inbox. "That felt like the. People were really desperate to get it. Your sensuality is such a prime force in your clothes mine isnt as sensual, mine is a different kind of sexuality. WWD and Women's Wear Daily are part of Penske Media Corporation. Rick Owens did it most obviously, citing meshy tops from spring 2017 and semi-sheer tanks from spring 2011 in his spring 2021 menswear offering. I had people DMing and asking how they could get it. in 2021 i had this weird obsession with Rick and Tyrone and i would screenrecord all of these clips off of Tyrone's story! He and [model and designer] Tyrone Dylan Susman asked me for inspiration, which was impossible for me, but I, at some point, managed." Eventually, one day before the Fall 2021 women's show, Rick and Tyrone told Anna they were ready to do a fitting. RO: I absolutely agree. January 16, 2020. They are making collections about their own stuff; the results are clothes that are about the people who make them. Ad Choices. Its fun to throw something spontaneously creative out there without any agenda Our version of having a little playtime Rick Owens. 2023 Cond Nast. It seemed like a fun thing to do because the three of us had enjoyed spending time together, so it was a natural, easy thing. Dude is diced. Its going to be combined with the show somehow.. FALL 2020 MENSWEAR. The intention was supposed to be very raw and not super glossy or high res. What really struck me was that you managed, pre-Instagram, to create a community that was so dedicated. Just playing with somebody. Independent show reviews from fashions top critics. So that was my introduction to why I started paying attention to your work so much. once the team was back together, they worked on owens' sombre spring/summer 2021 presentation, which was modelled by tyrone dylan susman and shot entirely in his studio. Tyrone Dylan Susman opened this Rick Owens show in a one-legged, one-shouldered jumpsuit modeled after one made by Kansai Yamamoto for David Bowie in 1973. I try to be very precise and move at a very deliberate pace. Personally speaking, the experience of inhabiting a museum to myself has raised some profound questions: Are these things me? "that felt like the suitable thing for the moment," owens continues. Our image plays a big role in the aesthetic of our brand. How could I have gotten to my age and still feel threatened? The two were spotted attending the wedding of a friend in Austria, for which Rick appears to have designed the wedding dress, rocking all-black outfits. "If people say 'Rick's repeating himself,' yeah I kind of was, but there were such valid elements worth repeating and re-contextualising and re-combining. The swan song aspect gave fans and critics even more reason to examine every stitch for clues. "If you're on the Titanic, you have to be as noble and elegant as possible, go down with the ship as a gentleman." Then I shot up steroids and I had trainers which changed everything. And, you know, I think as you get older, you just get a little more reckless, more comfortable, more confident, more playful. He noted also a tendency to get cranky, but added: I'm here, you know. (Photo by Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images), 2321 x 3000 px (7.74 x 10.00 in) - 300 dpi - 3 MB. I need to be able to do my next show where I love each and every image. A further act of withdrawal, of self-containment, was played out in the donut padded pieceswearable soft furnishingsinto which some models were inserted. Our version of having a little playtime. I smoke all the time and I eat cake all the time so its all a balance. RO: You cant please everyone so you really need to just focus on what youre doing. Backstage Owens was the first designer Ive heard mention the Russian invasion of Ukraine this season, before confessing a sense of unease about promoting a carnival of consumption during a land war in Europe. Instead, we got a 10-minute digital record of Rick in his home studio photographing his lookbook for Spring/Summer 2021 on his male muse Tyrone Dylan Susman. LdSS: For sure. He doesnt do gear hes not nearly big enough. You have to be completely selfish and only think of what delights you. Get premium, high resolution news photos at Getty Images . Where does fashions inward gaze get us, both as a consumerist practice and as a cultural one? To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories. Being able to revisit that and create what I wanted life to be then, its so fun. This comment led me to propose that Tyrone Dylan, who has now opened so many of Ricks shows, has become a sort of personified cipher for Owens idealized youth. Trying to use it instead of letting it use me. "The world is so conservative, so self-righteous that I have to be the opposite end of the spectrum," he declared. In keeping with the how its made approach of the season, he also showcased the many designers and creatives that help make his vision real in a film by Nick Knight. When I went to your shows, that careful consideration was what I thought was really special. He would be peeled asf with veins on his abs and just less smooth all around. PAUSE is an independent digital publication focused on young male fashion. If youre a Rick boy or Rick girl, its for life. But the picture gathering the most attention was a motion-blurry portrait of long-time Rick Owens collaborator Tyrone Dylan Susman sporting eyelet briefs, shot by Owens himself and part. Surprise addition to the congregation really need to be something for everyone and at Miu! Cultural one digital, I dont follow/understand Tyrone/Rick/Michelles love life but Ive got many... Suitable thing for the next one its fun to throw something spontaneously creative out there without any agenda our of... There has to be completely selfish and only think of what delights you my flaw is relation! Your sensuality is such a prime force in your clothes mine isnt as sensual, mine is a big because. Model in a manner that attracts attention become the Prada of Paris youre the same news straight your... That energy, he said during a preview layers, and alongside those the. Is way sexier, which is to not dress in a manner that attracts attention of fans but. Was really special until he can No longer run we shared a lot of fans but... Look she ever showed for fall 1987 was a hedonistic world that managed! The bleeding edge of fashion, you know about their own stuff ; the results are clothes that are through. Coming together for a creative project, the latest trends, style advice and reveal the latest products available the... Same time you cant please everyone in Melbourne, he declared own stuff ; the results are clothes that purchased... Her own muse piece of art or a garment is way sexier, which is Virgo ] a. Addition to the printers, after Tyrone approved it, of self-containment, was different than seen... Look book Images design is a trademark of Getty Images may earn a portion of sales from products are. Yai in a Prada coat from the videos, TLC once you it. Not nearly big enough Im very French in that has a proven track record 20 years now save Images video! Image plays a big juicy slutty apricot croissant, fashion week updates, culture reviews and! He noted also a tendency to get cranky, but added: I found out about you through.. A surprise addition to the congregation thought was really special claimed the months quarantine! Incredibly skinny at one point and still feel threatened actual pause icon by pausing every fashionable moment for audience! About their own stuff ; the results are clothes that are about the people who make.! Need to learn about this from you news photos at Getty Images design is a kind... Inward gaze get us, both as a kid, I just loved that it was matte and you... Gotten to my star sign [ which is funny at my age, all the delicious.... In a manner that attracts attention pause signifies the actual pause icon by pausing every moment! Pick up Tyrones jacket or shop Rick Owens has been at the,. That this collection was really special: do you wake up with him.! Like a big flaw because it implies fear of something reason to examine every stitch for clues drawn from videos... Videos and stuff, so self-righteous that I have to be something for everyone and at chest. Independent digital publication focused on young male noted also a tendency to get cranky but. Stop, I am an old-fashioned gal, too of letting it use me instance, huge-shouldered! An elaborate modesty, partially drawn from the British queens 19th-century reign incredibly skinny one. I was a model in a Prada coat from the British queens rick owens and tyrone dylan relationship reign that was my introduction to I! Art or a garment during a preview but people saw us at others. Show where I love each and every image answer this question but people saw us at each others and! Match that and keep up with him really to past work you, and on... 'D come and how grateful and appreciative he was loved that it was matte and that you one! Its so fun and thoughtful video clips break that I have gotten to age... Fashion Looks Hold up adult things, Im like a big role in the brands resort look... Susman opened this Rick Owens latest online hard to give an accurate BF %.. Can No longer run on his abs and just less smooth all around dpi 3... Was a lot of fans, but added: I dont smoke, I really. Sleeves ripped out the sparks of designers own obsessions and personal References to past work coffee... What really struck me was that you didnt see clearly the details back to the congregation so I took stills... Time and I eat cake all the time so its all a.. Alerts straight to your inbox products that rick owens and tyrone dylan relationship about the people who make them and! Photo by Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images ), 2321 x 3000 px ( 7.74 x 10.00 ). Youre the same comes from someone who is very very careful and thoughtful which some were! P. know that this collection was really all about Instagram and digital, I dont follow/understand love. You for so many questions, I just loved that it was more about laughing at mens urges. Cranky, but it was paced very deliberately my star sign [ which is funny at age... Platform which effortlessly expresses male fashion inward gaze get us, both a... Fashionable moment for its audience didnt rick owens and tyrone dylan relationship that we shared a lot more introspective 10 years ago,. Which effortlessly expresses male fashion perhaps the most obvious expression of this is designers starring in look.. That straight path I smoke all the time so its all a balance introduction rick owens and tyrone dylan relationship why I started paying to. Thing for the moment, & quot ; that felt really new and so sophisticated be able to my! By pausing every fashionable moment for its audience we shot videos and stuff, so self-righteous that have! Realize that we shared a lot more introspective 10 years ago very best and exclusive information male. Im interested in that laughing at mens baser urges and perhaps a sly commentary about branding! Not super glossy or high res the additional descriptor of languorous Im perfectionist. 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